FAQs

In-Stock Entry Doors

You can purchase any of our in-stock doors through our online shopping cart, simply follow the "more info/buy now" link on each door. If you would like to pay via check or if you would like to place your order over the phone you can reach us at 1-877-897-2818. Our office hours are 9:00 am - 5:30 pm EST.

Custom Doors

Request a quote - most of our custom door projects begin with clients requesting a quote either by filling out our "Custom Door Quote Request" form which can be found at the top of each custom door product page. Or you can call our office and speak to a sales representative who will be able to walk you through the process.

Once the quoted price has been approved by the client we will then begin drafting an engineered drawing (also known as a CAD). If any changes need to be made to the CAD (design wise or deminsion wise) you will be able to make changes at this stage. Both the CAD and Invoice must be signed and returned before the door will be put into production. Once the door goes into production we will not be able to make changes.You can return the signed CAD and Invoice to us via fax (704-986-7809) or if you wish to email the signed CAD and invoice to us that will be fine as well. We will also need to process/recieve payment (either payment in full or a deposit; depending on the cost of the sale) before the door will be put into production. When the final CAD and Invoice are sent, you will also receive shipping information, finishing instructions (if applicable) and a handing chart.

Lift-Gate Option

To help you in the unloading of your door(s) we offer a lift-gate option on all of our product deliveries. The lift-gate is a mechanical platform on the rear of the delivery truck that can lower your door unit to the ground. This option prevents you from having to physically move the door from the truck to the ground. This option is selectable in our stock product collections, but if you would like to have a lift-gate for your custom door(s) please let us know when placing your order as an additional charge is applied for this option.

Tracking Your Door

We will notify you once your door has been shipped and inform you as to what freight carrier we have used. A tracking number will be included in this information. Once the door has arrived the freight company will call you to schedule a time for curb-side delivery.
You can expect your door to arrive on a motor freight carrier. Dealing with a motor freight carrier is different than using UPS or the Postal Service. When your product arrives, expect it to be heavy and bulky. Door units can weigh between 100 and 450 pounds in their crate. Do not expect a motor freight driver to help you unload. They will move your product to the end of their truck and from that point the door is yours to manage. You will need at least two people to unload and we recommend more. Often, door units are easier to manage once removed from their crate so you might want to uncrate immediately after removing your door from the truck. A lift-gate is available to you for an extra charge, please ensure that you ask about this option when ordering a custom product. All stock doors have a lift-gate option in the 'Customize Your Door' section of each product.

Shipping Information for Custom/Stock Doors

All unfinished custom/stock doors must be finished/sealed on all six sides within three (3) days of delivery or the limited warranty becomes void.
The Custom Door Limited Warranty / Stock Door Limited Warranty does not cover exposure to the elements before the door has been installed and finished. It is the client’s responsibility to ensure proper storage of the door after it has been delivered.
All custom doors must be inspected before they are signed for by recipient. It is the responsibility of the recipient to inspect the door for damage before it is signed for. Although damage during shipping is rare, if it appears that the crate has been damaged we advise that you open the crate and inspect the door on the truck. We insure our doors for shipping to help cover incidental costs associated with transporting such a large product. If the door has been damaged beyond the ability to repair on site the recipient should then
1) refuse shipment
2) note any and all damage to the door with the delivery company so that the issues can be addressed by Clark Hall Doors Online, LLC.
Photographic records are the best way to help expidite any and all shipping claims.
(For a full explanation please see our Warranty page)

Delivery Time-Frame

To verify lead times on both custom and stock doors please contact our home office.

All of our Custom Wrought Iron Doors are built in Monterrey, Mexico. We outfit all of these doors with glass once they arrive in the US to ensure our glass is up to code. We also offer our doors without glass.

If glass can be ordered and installed locally it expidites the order and saves the customer in cost. If you order a custom wrought iron door with glass the door(s) and jamb will be shipped to you seperately, normally within a 5 week lead time (from CAD approval). The glass sash inserts will ship out seperately from our Charlotte, NC warehouse, this will take an additional 3 weeks. The sashes are easily hung on a post style hinge. The threshold, sweeps and weather-stripping are also sent out seperately from our Charlotte, NC warehouse.

If you are simply replacing your door slab, the following article at DoItYourself.com will be able to walk you through all the necessary steps.

If you have other other home remodeling questions you may also be able to find help from their homepage. Visit DoItYourself.com - The Leading Home Improvement and Remodeling Website Featuring the Internet's Largest Hardware Superstore

If you are replacing an entire door unit, then you will need to follow the following instructions:

Tools needed:  Level, drill, driver and bits, chop saw, coping saw or jig saw, caulk gun, hack saw, drummel tool.

1. Remove existing door, interior and exterior casing, jamb and threshold.

2. Make sure that rough opening base is level and that opening is 1” larger than the new door jamb.

3. Install door unit into rough opening.

4. Level and plum the hinged side of the jamb first, securing the jamb with 3” screws installed through or behind the hinges.

5. Shim door or doors behind the hinges and keep a 1/8” uniform reveal on top, sides and center.

Note: Double doors should close into the astragal top centre and bottom at the same time. The jamb can be moved in or out at the top or bottom to ensure proper closure of the doors against each other.

6. The door may be bored or mortised to receive your hardware. Standard bore is 2” holes 5 ½” inches center to center. Use template provided with your hardware.

For any Further assistance call Lloyd Clark at 980-253-2029 or the Home Office at 877-897-2818.

Tools needed:  Level, drill, driver and bits, chop saw, coping saw or jig saw, caulk gun, hack saw, drummel tool, grinder or file.

Supplies not provided by CHD: 3” by ¼” lag bolts, self-tapping 1” screws for attaching the sweep, ¾ “ shims, black caulk, Krylon low gloss black spray paint for touch ups and grease gun.

Door(s) / Unit arrival: The door(s) and the jamb will be shipped in separate crates direct from our mill shop in Monterrey, Mexico. The glass doors, threshold, weather stripping and sweeps will arrive usually within two to three weeks after the doors and jamb. You will need all of the accessories to complete the install. Please notify us if you need to install the door without the glass and we will ship the other accessories at the same time as the doors.

Note: The doors come direct from Monterrey, Mexico and the glass insert for the door(s) cannot be ordered until the product arrives in the U.S. thus taking an additional three weeks (approx) including shipping time.

Notes on hardware:
1. Standard bore is 2 ¾” backset , 2” holes 5 ½” center to center.
2. Do not use lever handles, as it will interfere with the operation of the glass doors.
3. Our iron doors are 2” thick so you will need to request an extension kit with your hardware choice for 2” or 2 ¼” doors.

1. Make sure you have a rough opening at least 1" (one inch) wider and taller than the door.

2. Make sure the floor is level; the bottom of both jamb legs must be level.

3. Install the jamb setting it in the opening level and plumb. Make sure you set it 1/2” or 5/8” into the room making allowance for the interior dry wall. Set and shim one leg of the jamb level and plumb and temporarily set the other leg. Note: Use the 3” lag bolts to set the jamb.

4. Screw the sweep onto the bottom of the door. Use silicone and self-tapping screws. Cut the sweep to length and bore it for the throw bolt on the passive door.

5. Sand or file the paint from the male part of the Barrel hinge

6. Inject one shot of grease into the grease nipples of all hinges

7. Insert ball bearing provided and with at least two people drop the door into the receiving hinge on the door jamb - male into female.

8. Secure and shim the other jamb leaving an even reveal around the door and down the centre where the two doors meet (you may need to shim the top of the door to spread the jamb). Note: Doors need to meet, top, centre and bottom at the same time. Adjust jambs accordingly.

9. Remove the temporary shipping rods. The temporary shipping rods are located at the bottom of the jamb and should be cut in the center with a hack saw,. Bend them back and forth until they break off.

10. Chop the threshold to length and cope out for the doorstops. Note: Make a template for coping the ends of the threshold. Be sure to caulk under and at the ends of the threshold. Remove the adjustable part of the threshold to secure the threshold in the centre.

11. Install the weather stripping in the jamb and astragal.

12. Using some lipstick or water to mark where to bore for the top and bottom throw bolts. Make sure not to bore too large of a hole or the passive door will rattle in the wind.

13. Remove the tape and set the gasket for the glass door mitering the corners. Be sure not to stretch the gasket or it will shrink. More gasket material can be obtained at any Lowes or Home Depot.

14. Install your glass doors. You may need to spread or close the receiver for the glass door latch to make sure it is not too loose or too tight. Don't force the latch or it will break.

15. Install your hardware as per manufacturers specs. You may want to tap the holes for the strike plates, as the iron will tend to strip the threads of the soft brass screws.

For any Further assistance call Lloyd at 980-253-2029 or the Home Office at 877-897-2818

Many clients come to us without a clear picture of the wood type they want to use. We do our best to help educate clients, but the following information might help you to make a more informed decision when it comes to selecting a wood type for your entry door.

Primary Woods (woods that we build most often with)

Alder:
Alder is a relatively soft hardwood with a grain patter similar to cherry. The color is uniform and varies slightly form reddish-brown to light tan or honey. Knotty alder has a rustic, rugged look: knots are random in size quantity and location. Open, star and split knots are common. Alder accepts stain and finishes very well.

Cherry:
Cherry is a hardwood with a rich color and fl owing grain patter. The fine, satiny texture of the wood is uniform and frequently wavy, with distinctive gum veins and pockets. The lustrous heartwood ranges from light to dark reddish brown, contrasting sharply with the sapwood, which me be light brown to pale with a light pinkish tone; however, between boards there my be significant color variations. Small gum spots, pin knots and mineral streaks are characteristic.

* Important: Cherry is extremely light sensitive and darkens significantly with age and intensity due to sunlight exposure.

Mahogany:
Mahogany is a hardwood with an interlocked or straight grain, often with a ribbon figure and a moderately coarse texture. Color ranges from creamy-white sapwood to reddish brown heartwood, often with a purple cast. Mahogany is moderately heavy and hard with medium bending and crushing strength, low stiffness and shock resistance, moderate decay resistance and good stability. Our stock doors are made using Indonesian Mahogany (Meranti). We build our custom doors using either African Mahogany (Sapelli), if we build in the U.S., or Honduran Mahogany if we build in Honduras.

Pine/Knotty Pine:
Pine is a softwood with a relatively straight grain pattern. The sapwood is usually light yellowish-white to yellowish-tan, while the heartwood is light orange-yellow to red or yellowish-brown in color. Pine is light in weight and relatively low in shock resistance. Knots are tight and sound; the quantity varies depending on the grade of lumber selected.

Spanish Cedar:
Spanish cedar is a softwood with a grain pattern similar to mahogany. Traditionally used in humidors, it is prized for its resistance to insect attacks and rot, and is an excellent choice for exterior doors. Color varies slightly from reddish-brown to light pink. Knots tend to be small and pin-like; larger dark brown or black pitch marks and streaks are also common.

Red Oak:
Red Oak is a hardwood chosen primarily for its prominent, open grain patter. Some color variation from reddish tan to medium brown is possible. Occasional pin knots and mineral streaks are also characteristic. Oak is relatively heavy in weight and exhibits high shock resistance. It accepts stain readily and finishes well.

Walnut:
Walnut hardwood has beautiful, distinct differences in color between the nearly white sapwood and the heartwood, which ranges from a deep, rich almost chocolate brown to a purplish black. The species often has a purplish cast with dark streaks. The grain of walnut is mostly straight and open, although some boards may have a grain pattern that is burled or curly. The wood surface is generally fairly dull, though it may develop a lustrous patina after many years in use.

White Oak:
White Oak is a dense hardwood with a white to cream to light brown color. The rays of white oak tend to be longer than read oak, which makes the species prized for construction of “Mission” style furniture and woodwork. White Oak is very durable and exhibits high shock resistance. White oak stains well, although contact with metal will result in a dark stain on the wood.

Douglas Fir:
Douglas Fir is a soft wood with generally straight, sometimes wavy grain. Its texture is medium to airly coarse and its color varies from yellowish to orange-red heartwood and whitish to reddish-white sapwood. It is typically free of knots. Douglas Fir has moderate shock resistance and high stiffness. It is somewhat brittle and susceptible to checking/splitting.

Hard Maple:
Hard Maple is a very strong hardwood with a closed, subdues grain and a uniform texture. The sapwood is a lovely creamy white, while the heartwood ranges from creamy white to light reddish brown. Unless otherwise specified, figuring such as curly, birds-eye, quilted or fiddleback is slight. Due to its light color and durability, hard maple is a popular choice for a ‘contemporary’ look. Because it is so dense it does not stain well.

Hickory:
Hickory is a dense hardwood with extremely high shock resistance. The heartwood is tan or reddish, with the sapwood a contrastingly beautiful creamy white. Checking is relatively common in hickory and the relative density makes it difficult to take a stain well. It is most beautiful with a clear, natural finish.

Secondary Woods (woods that we can build with, but rarely do)

Lyptus (Eucalyptus):
Lyptus hardwood has a density similar to hickory or maple with surface qualities similar to mahogany. Color is relatively consistent from dark pink to a deep red. Lyptus is a green hardwood; it is only grown and harvested on renewable plantations, making it completely self-sustainable and environmentally responsible.

Poplar:
Poplar is a hardwood with a relatively straight grain and a fine, even texture. Color varies significantly from creamy-white to green to brown to purple. Poplar is relatively soft and light with low ratings for strength and shock resistance. Due to variations in color and density, it does not stain consistently; however it is an excellent choice for a painted finish.

Quarter-Sawn White Oak:
Because of its unique sawing pattern, quarter-sawn white oak has a beautiful lumed or flared appearance, or a flake pattern that may be referred to as “tiger rays” or “butter-flies.” It has long been used in fine furniture, especially in early colonial America. White oak finishes well, is very durable and exhibits high shock resistance.

Soft Maple:
Soft Maple is a hardwood with a straight, close grain pattern and a fine, even texture. Colors may vary significantly from a creamy white sapwood to a beige or tan-colored heartwood, with green or very dark brown streaks. It is strong and stiff, but has a relatively low shock resistance. Its even texture renders it suitable for painted applications, and it is more durable than poplar for exterior applications.

Wormy Maple:
Wormy Maple has been specifically selected out to show mineral streaks and color variations caused by the ambrosia worm. No two boards are alike. Colors and patterns vary significantly from a creamy white sapwood to a beige heartwood, with green or very dark brown streaks. It is strong and stiff, but has a relatively low shock resistance. Wormy Maple is common in fine, hand-crafted furniture.

Yellow Birch:
Birch is among the most featureless of North American hardwoods, although it has a natural, pleasing figure. The sapwood ranges from pale to white to creamy yellow, while the heartwood tends to be a light-reddish brown with a red tinge. Occasionally, boards may show curly or wavy figuring. It is hard and stiff with excellent shock resistance.

This is probably the easiest thing to complicate when ordering an entry door. Handing refers to which side of the door your handset will be located on. And whether your door is an in-swing (swings inside the house when opened) or an out-swing (swings outside the house when opened) will affect how you look at your doors handing.

The tried and true method that we use when explaining this to a client is this: When you are facing the outside of the door take note of which side the hinges are on.

* For example: if you face your door from the outside and can see that your handset is on the left side - you know that your hinges are on the right side of the door. And once you can tell which side of the door your hinges are on, you are set as to what handing/swing your door is.

* In the previous example, since the hinges are on the right side of the door we would call that door a right-hand in-swing. If the hinges were on the left, it would be a left-hand in-swing.

All unfinished doors should be finished/sealed on all six sides within three (3) days of delivery to insure limited warranty. The Custom/Stock Door Limited Warranty does not cover exposure to the elements before the door has been installed and finished. It is the client’s responsibility to ensure proper storage of the door after it has been delivered.

PREPARATION FOR FINISHING
• Doors should be sealed no more than 3 days, 36 hours after job site delivery.
• To assure uniform moisture exposure and dimensional control, ALL surfaces must be treated equally.
• Before applying first finishing coat, sand entire surface lightly with 5/0 (220 grit) sandpaper. Always sand in the direction of the grain. Spot sanding can cause the finish to appear splotchy.
• After sanding, clean entire door with a cloth removing dust or foreign debris.
• Before finishing, hang the door. Then remove to finish properly.
• Some woods contain chemicals which react unfavorably with certain finishes causing dark stain spots. Where possible, the finish selection should be tested prior to application.
• Properly finish entire door. COAT TOP, BOTTOM, SIDES, PANEL EDGES WITH EACH APPLICATION. DOOR MUST BE DRY BEFORE FINISHING.

EXTERIOR FINISHING

STAIN-AND-CLEAR FINISH:
• Clark Hall Doors recommends Sikkens stain products. We believe they provide the highest quality and longest lasting protection for any of our doors. Protect your investment. We have found Sikkens will out last any other finish two to one.
• When not using a Sikkens, apply a wood conditioner to the entire product prior to staining to help reduce the color variations and blotches that are natural characteristics to all wood
• Choose a stain with UV prohibitors as the sun will drastically change many stain colors. All Sikkens stains provide the highest UV protection in the industry.
• To color and seal, make first coat a stain-and-sealer with alkyd-resin base. (Lacquer-based toner, water and lacquer-based finished are not for exterior doors.)
• Second coat to be solvent borne (oil base, alkyd resin base). We suggest Spar or Marine Urethane. Min Wax makes a great product for this as well. Avoid polyurethanes because they tend to breakdown with UV Rays causing your door direct exposure to the elements.
• Lightly sand with 5/0 (220 grit) sandpaper or 000 steel wool between each top coat. Remove dust before recoating. Minimum of 3 top coats required.
• After completion; score around each panel with razor knife to allow for expansion and contraction.

PAINT FINISH:
• To paint finish your door, use a solvent based primer coat and a compatible solvent based finish coat. Sand all surfaces between all coats of primer and finish.
• A minimum of the three top coats is recommended. (Refer to paint manufacturers' instructions.)
• After completion; score around each panel with razor knife to allow for expansion and contraction.
• Dark pigmented paints i.e. black, dark green facing a sun exposure will cause excessive wood movement and possible splits or cracks. Use of dark colors will void warranty.

MAINTENANCE
• Stain-and-clear finishes perform better is protected from sunlight and weathering. (Re-finishing will be required less frequently).
• Exterior door finishes may deteriorate with exposure to environment. Inspect finish at least once a year. Refinish as needed.

STORM DOORS
• High temperature (due to direct sunlight) develops in the space created by using a storm door. This excessive heat can cause the panels to split. Thus storm doors are not recommended and will void warranty.

Doors are shipped from Mexico and protected with foam, cardboard and iron crates. But it is not uncommon for doors to suffer some minor damage in shipping. Also it is difficult to install an iron door without some damage (scratches) to the finish.

Note: These doors are hand hammered wrought iron and a certain amount of marring or imperfection is to be expected. They are custom one of a kind works of art and some of the marks add character and authenticity to the door.

Instructions for Minor Scratch Touch-Ups

Supplies provided in Minor Scratch Touch-Up Kit: Copper colored paint.

1)  Touch-up scratches or chips on doors using a Krylon satin black paint (mixing in a small amount of the copper colored paint) provided in the touch up kit and also available at Wal-Mart or Michaels Crafts Stores. Black is the base and can be applied with a q-tip or small touch up brush

Instructions for Bondo Touch-Ups

If there are dents, chips or dings in the door you may need to patch the area with an automotive bondo repair kit.

Supplies provided in Minor Scratch Touch-Up Kit: Krylon black and copper colored paint.
Supplies NOT provided in touch-up kit by CHD: Medium paint reducer (it is too flammable for standard shipping and unless you are re-finishing the entire door this is rarely needed) latex gloves, steel wool. Bondo is sent upon request.

1. Touch-up bondo or chips on doors using a Krylon satin black paint provided in the touch up kit and also available at Michaels Crafts Stores. Black is the base and can be applied with a q-tip or small touch up brush.
   
   
2. Mix some of the faux color (copper) with a medium paint reducer available at a paint specialty store. Note: This is not a science, so you mix to match - approximately 1 part paint with 9 parts reducer.
   
   
3. With rubber gloves dip the gin cloth in the rag into the paint and reducer mixture. Make sure to stir regularly. Dab this onto a part of the door that will not be conspicuous to test the color. Note: Outside of jamb is typically a good place to test color.
   
   
4. Let dry and then add paint or reducer and try again (the paint dries quickly so it shouldn't take long) then dab onto the area of the door(s) that needs to be touched up. You may want to tape off the area you are touching up with painters tape, especially around the hinges. If you dab too much it will lift the black so you dab and move on until the area dries.

This may be all you need to do. However, sometimes you may want to use some fine steel wool to blend it all together. Wipe and you are finished. For any further assistance you can reach Lloyd at 980-253-2029 or the Home Office at 877-897-2818

Clark Hall Doors Online, LLC is committed to using only wood products that have been certified as having been responsibly harvested from well managed forests that adhere to strict environmental and socioeconomic standards. None of the timber used in our doors are from endangered wood species. The standards we follow are in accordance with the Principles and Criteria of the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). These certification efforts between environmentalists and foresters improve forestry practices, protect natural wildlife habitats, ensure sustainable natural resources, maintain healthier forests and promote longterm viability for future renewable resources.

If you would like to find out more about the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) please visit their website. (www.fsc.org)